This phase is the point at which the puppies realize the world is larger than the end of their noses! They begin crawling around and exploring their environment. Vision and hearing is becoming more developed so they can learn about their environment and their litter mates. They begin the process of learning to behave like dogs. They observe mom and play with litter mates then they try out different body postures and behaviors, gradually learning what effect each of these has on others. They attempt howling and barking and wrestling, they learn what happens when they bite another puppy, and learn what it is like to be bitten. This is the basis for social relationships in the pack. Around five weeks of age, just about the time weaning begins, the mother teaches her puppies to be submissive to her as the pack leader. When necessary, she will growl or snap at them as a form of discipline. So this is a critical period for learning to accept discipline from a pack leader. If this phase is short-changed, and the pup is removed from the litter too early, its later training will be much more difficult. A puppy may even grow up to be aggressive with other dogs because it never learned the rules at this stage of development! This is the main reason that 7 weeks is considered the absolute minimum age to remove a pup from its mom and litter mates.

In this period the puppy is a learning machine. Everything they experience will be later integrated into their personality. This period, more than any other, is one where every event has a lasting impact. Every experience is a learning experience, whether it is intended that way or not; good habits can be learned or bad habits established. Your puppy will begin to expand its idea of "pack" from its mom and litter mates, to the humans around her as well. Your puppy has just finished learning how to respect Mom, the canine pack leader. Now that she has left mom, she will need YOU to be the new pack leader. The pup will be very anxious to please you, and will learn what rules you want him to follow. This is the best time to do that! Things that are cute in a puppy, like growling, biting and jumping, are not so cute in an adult. NOW is the time to establish the ground rules regarding those behaviors. Corrections should be consistent and non-punitive; correction does not mean punishment. If a pup is chewing on something unauthorized, take it away and substitute an appropriate choice, rather than yelling at her. This is also the period in which your puppy will learn to find new situations either scary or exciting. How he learns to feel about new situations depends upon him being exposed to them many, many times, but in a secure environment. Taking your puppy lots of places, meeting lots of different kinds of people, and making it FUN, will insure that he is flexible and happy in meeting new situations in the future. This is a challenge, as full immunization against Parvo virus is not possible until 16 weeks of age. Until she is fully immunized, you should try to expose your pup to as many new situations and people as possible, while avoiding places where lots of dogs frequent. Playgrounds and shopping centers that do not have pet stores are a good start. In addition, frequent grooming sessions at this point will insure that your pup learns to allow brushing, ear cleaning and nail trimming without a struggle.

What should I do in this stage?

• Expose your puppy to new situations and people Be consistent in correcting undesirable behaviors.
• Groom frequently (hair, nails, ears) so it becomes routine
• Provide stimulating and fun toys
• Teach "sit"
• Begin working on the "come" command by playing a game where people take turns calling the pup, and the pups gets a treat when she arrives

This period partly overlaps the Human Socialization Period (see just above).

During this time, any scary or painful experiences will leave a greater impression than if it had occurred at another time. Trips to the veterinarian, if frightening, can cause a lifelong discomfort with vets, for example. A scary car ride can cause anxiety tied to cars that can be somewhat difficult to reverse. If such events are necessary, and of course they are, try to make them as fun as possible, with lots of playing and treats.

What should I do in this stage?

• Make new experiences fun...lots of play and treats
• If possible, avoid situations that might be scary

During this period your puppy will begin to challenge your authority to see if you will maintain your position as leader of your pack, the reason a friend refers to this as the "You're not the boss of me" stage! In a wild pack, this is necessary, as sometimes old pack leaders need to be replaced. You do not want your puppy to get the idea he can replace you as pack leader, however, so you need to show the dog, in her language, who is pack leader.

Ways to display leadership to your dog are:

• Make sure you eat first, in front of your dog, before feeding her. Pack leaders eat first!
• Make your dog sit before going through any door, then you go through first. Again, pack leaders go first!
• Make your dog sit for everything! Sit for a treat, sit to be petted, sit to be given a toy, sit for no reason. This reinforces that what you say, goes.
• Do "puppy-pushups" at random times, just to show he needs to follow your wishes. This consists of the commands "Sit, down, sit, down" several times in succession.
• Allow him on the furniture only at your invitation (if you allow him on the furniture at all) and never allow him to sleep on your bed. In a wild pack, the pack leader gets the highest and most coveted resting place!
• Try a day or 2 of tethering. This consists of attaching your dog's leash to your belt, so she has to go everywhere and do everything with you. Do not talk to your dog or pet her, just require her to move with you as you go about your activities. This is especially effective if a pup is trying to dominate a child. Having the pup tethered to the child tells him in no uncertain terms who gets to make the decisions!
• Behaviors such as nipping and grabbing the leash usually reach a peak in this period, and are attempts at dominance. They should not be tolerated, and games which encourage them should be avoided, or strictly regulated. Tug of war is acceptable ONLY if you initiate the game AND end it by winning EVERY TIME. Children should not be allowed to play tug of war as it cannot be assured they will do this, and you do not want the puppy getting the idea they can dominate a child. The pups mouth should not ever be allowed to touch any part of a person's body. A command such as "No bite" or "No" should be chosen and consistently applied.
• An final comment about leadership...do not confuse it with dominance. Some "old school" training methods were based on the outdated concept that dogs need to be dominated by a pack leader in order to respect them. This is simply not true. A pack is a cooperative relationship, and the fact that there is a hierarchy does not mean those high in the pack need to scare those beneath them into cooperation. There simply needs to be an acknowledgement that there is someone in charge, and that is the goal of making the pack leadership clear.

What should I do in this stage?

• Establish leadership (see above)
• Lots of exercise
• Enroll in puppy training classes
• Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules

This stage is the beginning of independence. Even puppies that have always stayed close to their owners, or have come when called, will fail to do so. It is not uncommon for them to even bolt in an opposite direction. Puppies in an unconfined area should always remain tied to a long leash or line until they will come reliably. Puppies should never be allowed off leash UNLESS they are in a confined area, and even in a confined area you don't want to chase a puppy that is refusing to come. So what is to be done when your puppy bolts? The first steps are actually taken BEFORE this stage arrives. Play games where you call the puppy repeatedly, and treat when she comes. This can even be done in the house, with people stationed far apart or on different floors, taking turns calling the pup and treating. And work hard on the "Sit" command, spontaneously having the pup sit at unexpected times, then treating. Many times a pup that will not come when called will sit when commanded, and you can walk up and clip on the leash.

What should I do in this stage?

• Have your puppy neutered or spayed to prepare for the next stage
• Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules
• Keep puppy on a leash at all times, unless in a confined area
• Continue to work on "Sit" and "Come"

This age range is wide, as it sometimes occurs early in small dogs and later in larger, more slow to mature, breeds. Behaviors related to gender usually appear at this age, with males beginning to lift their legs and mark, and females may go into heat. Males, with their interest in determining territory and finding a mate, may become very unruly. Females may become pregnant. For these reasons it is VERY important your pup be desexed before this stage begins. Smaller breeds mature physically much sooner, and waiting until 6 months can be too late. Even in dogs neutered before this stage begins, adolescence is a challenge, and people are often surprised to find their meek little puppy has a mind of it's own. The trick to surviving your dog's adolescence is to go back to basics. Treat your pup as though she were 8-12 weeks old again! Increase the amount of exercise and decrease the amount of freedom provided. Assert dominance and your place as pack leader at every opportunity. Even with it's challenges, this stage can be amusing and fun. Dogs of this age are full of energy and puppy exuberance. Along with increasing the amount of exercise your pup gets, challenging him mentally with new games and new training can be satisfying for both of you, and is a good way to channel that energy. Most of all, remember that all dogs go through this stage, and you will get through it. Your sweet and well-behaved companion waits at the other end!

What should I do in this stage?

• Spay or neuter your puppy if you have not already done so
• Establish leadership (see above)
• Lots of exercise
• Enroll in more training classes
• Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules, restrict freedom if necessary
• Teach new games and provide interesting toys to challenge your pup mentally

This fear imprint period, as with the first one, overlaps with another stage. This period is less distinct and does not occur recognizably in all dogs. But if it happens in yours you will know it! It is almost looks like shyness, where a dog that formerly would investigate new situations becomes fearful of them. The best response is to be patient, but not reassure or force him. Forcing will scare him and reassuring him may give him the idea there is really something to be afraid of! Simply introducing him to the situation and rewarding and treating when he does explore is the best option.

What should I do in this stage?

• Continue to expose her to new situations.
• Respond to fearfulness in a cheerful and matter-of-fact way, with treats and play

Again, this may occur earlier in smaller breeds, later in larger breeds. As your dog reaches maturity, he may become more assertive and confident. She may begin defending territory by barking at strangers or barking when someone comes to the door. You need to be consistent and clear in defining where this behavior is appropriate and where it is not. For example, you may want her to bark when someone enters your property, but not at a stranger that walks by you on the street. Teach him that someone you invite into your home is acceptable by establishing a routine of allowing him a few barks, then requiring him to stop barking after your guest enters.

The same is true of interactions with other dogs. Begin by having him meet one, or at most two, dogs at a time, and praise him when his behavior is friendly and appropriate. Gradually move on to busier venues such as dog parks. It is important to be aware that adults of the same sex, even when neutered, will attempt to establish dominance. As long as it is done playfully, it is appropriate. But you will need to become aware of signs that it is becoming aggressive. Aggressive postures include a very stiff-legged walk, up on their toes, tail wags that are very short and brisk, and a facial expression that is intense, usually with the head lowered. These are usually seen as the dogs circle one another. Play should be halted if these signs are evident, as a fight may be imminent. Be sure to watch the other dogs for these signals also, as it may not be your dog that starts the fight!

In addition to establishing dominance with other dogs, your dog may again attempt to assert dominance over you, or over children in the family. It is especially important to reinforce your dog's position at the bottom of the pack, below you and your children. See the "Seniority Classification Period" for reminders of how to do this.

Finally, the usefulness of professional advice and input cannot be overemphasized. Training classes are almost always worth the time and money! Good dog trainers usually have a wealth of experiences to draw on, and the time you spend working with your dog forms a bond like no other.

What should I do in this stage?

• More training classes!
• Begin introductions to multiple dogs with only one or two dogs at a time
• Learn to recognize the behavioral signals that mean a fight may be coming
• Set rules about territory and barking and stick to them
• Re-establish leadership (see details above)